Journeys in Japan Season 16, Episode 14: Matagi: Yamagata’s Spiritual Hunter-Gatherers

1

The Mountain Spirit of Shiiba Village

Shiiba, one of Japan's three great unexplored regions, is hidden in mountains over 1,000 meters tall. The people in this secluded village have preserved their traditional landscapes and ancient practices like slash-and-burn farming, hunting, as well as mountain worship. In this winter journey, Canadian traveler Vincent experiences Shiiba's living traditions, including its mystical Kagura ritual dance.

28 min

2

Kyushu: Land of Samurai Swords

Kyushu is a region where the traditional skills of kenjutsu – Japanese swordsmanship – remain deeply embedded, with more dojo (practice halls) for kendo than anywhere else in Japan. In this episode, American actor BT travels through Kyushu to learn the spirit of the samurai. He tries his hand at yabusame (horseback archery), visits a workshop of traditional samurai armor, and learns the skills of iaido (wielding and cutting with an actual sword).

28 min

3

Enku's 120,000 Smiles Over Gifu

Roughly hewed, smiling statues of deities and Buddhas... A monk named Enku is believed to have sculpted some 120,000 in Gifu Prefecture, which are beloved to this day. We discover the stunning nature and culture of this area by following in the monk-sculptor's footsteps. We see where he practiced shugendo—rigorous mountain spiritual training; and where he stopped to create his charismatic statues. Actor Jonathan Senior travels to places associated with Enku to learn about his enduring legacy.

28 min

4

Hokuriku 1: Foods and Flavors of the Trading Ships

The Hokuriku Shinkansen bullet train connects Tokyo with Toyama, Ishikawa and (since March 2024) Fukui Prefecture. This region along the Sea of Japan has its own distinctive history and culture. Until the late 19th century, Hokuriku was the hub for a vital trading route plied by sailing ships known as kitamaebune. Besides carrying cargo from Hokkaido all the way to Osaka, these vessels also stopped at ports along the way, introducing a range of foods and culture from afar. In the first of two episodes on the Hokuriku region, Kyle Card visits Takaoka (Toyama Prefecture) and Kanazawa (Ishikawa Prefecture), to explore the traditional food culture that blossomed in the region thanks to the kitamaebune traders.

28 min

5

Hokuriku 2: The Golden Age of the Trading Ships and Their Legacy

The Hokuriku Shinkansen bullet train connects Tokyo with Toyama, Ishikawa and (since March 2024) Fukui Prefecture. This region along the Sea of Japan has its own distinctive history and culture. Until the late 19th century, Hokuriku was the hub for a vital trading route plied by sailing ships known as kitamaebune. While carrying cargo from Hokkaido all the way to Osaka, these vessels also called at ports along the way in Hokuriku. In the second of two episodes, Kyle Card visits Kaga City (Ishikawa), where he discovers the wealth amassed by the owners of the trading ships. And he explores the development of Tsuruga Port (Fukui) from the days of kitamaebune to a modern international shipping hub.

28 min

6

Gunma: Raking in Good Luck

For centuries, Daruma dolls have been popular in Japan as talismans to bring good fortune. The largest producer of Daruma dolls in Japan is Takasaki City, Gunma Prefecture, where there are about 40 workshops. The nearby city of Kiryu has a different good-luck charm: decorated rakes that are sold at fairs. A famous local specialty is Himokawa udon: the noodles are cut extra-long and wide as a wish for longevity. Euan Craig is an Australian potter and longtime Gunma resident. On this edition of Journeys in Japan, he digs deep into the history and culture of these talismans and meets some of the people who produce them.

28 min

7

Hida: Deep Winter Escape

We visit Furukawa, an old district of Hida City in Gifu Prefecture, which is surrounded by mountains and stunning scenery. Furukawa flourished as a castle town 400 years ago, and traces of that time remain. Step out of its streets and an undeveloped woodland, called satoyama, spreads out. An old way of life and unique food culture have been passed down to today. Canadian Kyle Card discovers the gems of this area.

28 min

8

Hokkaido Sapporo: Sensing the City Through Its Architecture

Sapporo is known for its rich architectural heritage, a symbol of its place as Hokkaido's hub of politics, economy, and culture from the 19th century. Architect James Liambasi visits a dairy farming research site with American design influences, a red-brick beer brewery, and Hokkaido's first TV tower. This time on Journeys in Japan, we glimpse this fascinating city through its architecture.

28 min

9

NIIGATA: SNOW COUNTRY WONDERLAND

Niigata is renowned for its heavy snowfall. Each winter it is transformed into a wonderland where the snow covers the landscape for nearly half the year. Despite these harsh conditions, this environment offers breathtaking views and unique traditions. In this episode, American illustrator Kailene Falls explores the prefecture, meeting the residents and sketching her experiences in Niigata's snow country.

28 min

10

Wakayama: The Cradle of Japan's Flavors

Wakayama is famous for shoyu, miso and umeboshi—staples in Japanese cuisine. In this episode, Shizuka Anderson meets artisans and farmers who make them, savors their distinctive flavors, and even gets to make her own.

28 min

11

Kure Port, Kochi — The Lure of Katsuo

Katsuo-bushi (bonito flakes) are one of the key ingredients in Japanese cuisine, for preparing dashi stock. They are made from the large migratory fish known in Japanese as katsuo and in English as skipjack tuna or bonito. Fishing communities in Tosa Bay, on the Pacific coast of Kochi Prefecture, continue to use the traditional rod-and-line method to catch the fish. On this edition of Journeys in Japan, Jonathan Senior explores the port town of Kure, where he tastes the finest fresh katsuo and meets the people for whom the fish is their life and their livelihood.

28 min

12

Izu Peninsula: Volcanic Beauty

The Izu Peninsula was formed by long ago volcanic eruptions. It was designated as a UNESCO Global Geopark for its unique geological features. The peninsula boasts a distinctive natural environment, with magnificent views, hot springs and a deep-water bay. Residents have guarded their culture and live with appreciation for its rich nature. On this episode, Dean Newcombe, who's from Britain, explores all this, and feels the breath of Izu.

28 min

13

Nagaoka: Water, the Wellspring of Abundance

Located in the heartland of Niigata Prefecture, the city of Nagaoka is blessed with an abundance of water. It lies on the banks of the Shinano River, the longest river in Japan, which is fed by snowmelt from the nearby mountains. The city's Settaya district is known for its traditional producers of sake, shoyu (soy sauce) and other fermented foods, for which the water is drawn from underground water sources below the city. Yamakoshi, up in the mountains, has become famous for its scenic rice terraces and the beautifully colored nishiki-goi carp that are bred and raised in the area. Here, too, people have prospered thanks to the plentiful water from the annual snowfall. On this edition of Journeys in Japan, photographer Tom Miyagawa Coulton meets the people of Nagaoka for whom water is the wellspring of their livelihood.

28 min

14

Matagi: Yamagata’s Spiritual Hunter-Gatherers

Japan is known for its fisheries and agriculture. But deep in the mountains, people called Matagi still maintain a hunter-gatherer lifestyle that has been passed down since long before farming took root. In this episode, American actor Michael Keida explores a remote mountain village in Oguni, Yamagata Prefecture, to experience Matagi culture.

28 min

15

Nishio: Whisking up the Global Matcha Boom

The city of Nishio lies in the Mikawa district of Aichi Prefecture, central Japan. Thanks to the elegance of its traditional architecture, the town has been nicknamed the "Little Kyoto of the Mikawa area." Nishio is one of the largest producers of matcha in Japan, and tea is widely grown across the city. There are many tea houses that serve matcha and also offer sweets made from the powdered green tea. On this edition of Journeys in Japan, Elisabeth Llopis soaks in Nishio's deep culture of matcha, samples other delicacies such as unagi (freshwater eel), and visits an island that has become known for its arts and crafts.

28 min

16

Tochigi: Life Away from the Sea

Tochigi prefecture, which lies inland, is home to distinctive culinary traditions featuring fish. Leina Bambino visits the Nakagawa River to try its cherished ayu sweetish and then continues on to Nikko to delight in its yashio-masu—a type of rainbow trout developed in the area. And in Tochigi city she samples traditional dishes featuring shark meat.

28 min

17

Okinawa: A World in Bloom

Okinawa is a subtropical paradise blooming with vivid flowers. Photographer Alfie Goodrich captures the profound beauty of the island's nature. Along the way, he meets a couple who incorporates blossoms into cuisine, as well as a flower farmer creating jobs for individuals with special needs. Alfie also encounters a mysterious tree that comes into bloom at dusk and vanishes at dawn.

28 min

18

With Isabella Bird — Part 6: On the Road to Biratori

British explorer and writer Isabella Bird arrived in Japan in 1878, just 10 years after the Meiji Era began. Accompanied by a young man who served as both interpreter and attendant, she traveled deep into the hinterland. "Unbeaten Tracks in Japan" is her highly praised travelogue of that journey. One of the main reasons for her visit to Japan is said to have been to write about the indigenous Ainu people living in Hokkaido. After reaching Hakodate, Isabella traveled to Biratori by horse and by rickshaw. On this edition of Journeys in Japan, Tijana, a resident of Hokkaido, learns about Ainu culture at Nibutani Kotan, where an Ainu settlement has been recreated.

28 min

19

SHAKOTAN: Out of the Blue, Into the Flames

The Shakotan Peninsula in the west of Hokkaido is known for the vivid color of the sea, which has come to be known as "Shakotan Blue." This craggy land is the stage for a mysterious summer festival that has been passed down through numerous generations. From the sacred mikoshi (portable shrines) which are plunged into the sea to the colorful banners of the fishing boats and, finally, the fire-walking ceremony, this festival is a vibrant celebration of faith and life in a proud fishing community. Andrzej Rudz, a cinematographer and filmmaker from Poland, captures the stunning landscapes of Shakotan and the passion of its people with images that are both delicate and dynamic.

28 min

20

The Ontake Kodo Path to Sacred Peak

Standing over 3,000 meters, Mt. Ontake is Japan's second-highest volcano. It has long been revered as sacred. In the 18th century, many pilgrims set off for its peak from Kiso-Fukushima, a major post town at the foot of the mountain. Their path came to be known as the Ontake Kodo Trail. On this episode, Peter Skov traces their footsteps to the summit while enjoying the nature and religious sites along the way.

28 min

21

Mishima: Festival Rhythms Run Deep

Mishima lies at the foot of Mount Fuji, in Shizuoka Prefecture. Its main shrine, Mishima Taisha, is said to have been founded in the 8th century to enshrine the deities of the mountain and the sea. Each year in August, the Mishima Grand Festival is held in the area around the shrine. The streets reverberate with excitement and the sound of shagiri, a percussive music that derives from festival music dating back over 450 years. Canadian actor Kyle Card is a major fan of Japanese festivals. On this edition of Journeys in Japan he delves deep into the way communities in Mishima are brought together through the vibrant rhythms of shagiri.

28 min

22

Higashikawa: Picture-Perfect Town

Higashikawa, just 15 minutes from Asahikawa Airport, is known as a leading rice producer in Hokkaido. Its lifestyle, connected to the land and a spirit of "live as you like," has come to be called the "Higashikawa Style." At its core is abundant nature, photography culture, multicultural coexistence, and furniture-making. Tom Miyagawa Coulton, a photographer from the UK, turns his lens on the Higashikawa Style.

28 min

23

Kochi Shimanto River: Pristine Water and Premium Fishing

The Shimanto River flows for 196 kilometers through Kochi Prefecture in the south of Shikoku. It is known for its crystal-clear water, which nourishes the fish and other river creatures while nurturing the people who live along its banks. Ken Blaxley has come to meet the local people, explore the area and try his hand at fishing in the untouched upper reaches of this river. He is shown a traditional approach for catching freshwater eels. He learns the tomozuri live-decoy fishing technique for ayu (sweetfish). And he takes on the challenge of fly-fishing for amago salmon, known as the "queen of the mountain streams." On this edition of Journeys in Japan, Ken discovers the way in which the local people try to live in harmony with the natural environment along length of the Shimanto River.

28 min

24

Discovering Japan's Hidden Christians

Although Christianity was banned in Japan for over 250 years, some communities refused to abandon their faith. Worshipping in secret, these "hidden Christians" developed some unique practices. Shizuka Anderson visits areas in Nagasaki and Kumamoto prefectures where these traditions have been preserved and which are designated as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site.

28 min

25

Hiking the San'in Coast: Tottori

The San'in Kaigan Geopark Trail is a 230-kilometer-long course connecting the Sea of Japan coastline along Tottori, Hyogo, and Kyoto prefectures, which were designated as a UNESCO Global Geopark. Canadian actor Kyle Card dives into the dynamic landscapes—veritable museums of topography and geology where traces of Earth from 30 million years ago remain—and the way of life in old fishing villages.

28 min

26

Unearthing a Love for Seto

Seto City, in Aichi Prefecture, is a leading ceramic hub, and also one of the Six Ancient Kilns of Japan. Its pottery tradition has continued uninterrupted for over 1,000 years. Ceramics are seen everywhere in stores, workshops and galleries, and even the landscape. Estella Mak, who is originally from Hong Kong, explores Seto, a pottery town filled with exceptional charms.

28 min

27

SHIMANE: In Search of Izumo's Gardens Past and Present

Shimane Prefecture, formerly known as Izumo, is home to a number of superb Japanese gardens — some traditional, others laid out more recently. At the Adachi Museum of Art, visitors will find one of the finest examples in all Japan. Over the centuries, the region has developed a profound and distinctive culture, which is reflected in its "Izumo-style" gardens, as well as a less formal approach to the tea ceremony that was embraced by the local populace. On this edition of Journeys in Japan, Sheila Cliffe explores a range of different Japanese gardens, to discover the sensibility and depth that underlies Shimane's garden culture.

28 min